He who eats alone chokes alone

One of the things I've noticed about Morocco is the groupfood. Many of the dishes are made in large batches and designed to nourish large gatherings. The food is indicative of the culture in that way. Here, as in some other countries--though certainly not the states--there is a rest in the middle of the day. From about noon until three, families retire home for the main meal of the day. Meals also seem often to be shared with friends and extended family.

Gone are the home-favored individualistic dishes of four mini-burgers on a platter, here they are replaced by great cauldrons of fragrant, warming soups; giant platters of cous cous overflowing in small avalanches onto waiting plates; and steaming, saucy tagines, to name a few. There is no such name here as Atkins, to the delight of my carbohydrate-loving soul. Warm bread is served with every meal.

Naturally, food is one of the first things upon which the weary traveler stumbles and, Morocco has been a pleasure so far. As Jacob pursues his Arabic language studies, I've been learning a thing or two about cultural studies on my own--actually, I've been learning along with the several other students who meet regularly for Moroccan cooking classes, conducted by the ever-patient Layla.

Aside from the unique constructions and recipes, eating here in Fez has been enriching in another way. If I was a wannabe-locavore before (eating foods from locally-produced origins), my chrysalis is nearly complete. Here, you shop at the central market from local vendors for produce, almost all of it carted in by hand. Fishmongers demonstrate a limited, if still unique variety of seafood and the butcher shops boast quite fresh offerings including lamb, beef, poultry of many kinds (but no pork!). Olives literally grow on trees here and are harvested, brined, flavored and sold in myriad varieties. Dates, figs and spices are also plentiful and nearly unlimited. Just about the only imported thing is cheese (and some selections from Marjane--the Moroccan equivalent of WalMart and the last-ditch for homey comfort foods like Uncle Ben's Rice and cereals).

One of my favorite recipes so far is a great snack food and easy to make. It's similar to a cornbread (although it's made with Semolina) and is generally eaten with butter and honey or jam.

Layla's Harcha
1 Kilo Semolina Flour
2 tsp. Salt
1 tsp. Baking Soda
1/2 cup Vegetable Oil
2 cups Water

In a bowl, mix flour, salt, baking soda, and vegetable oil. Then add water, mixing until dough becomes a ball (but not too wet).Split dough into 4 balls of equal size.Press one ball of dough into a 1/4" thick circle in an un-greased skillet. Cook over low flame for approximately 8 minutes per side (checking to make sure it browns lightly, but does not burn). Repeat for 3 other balls of dough. Top with honey or butter and serve.